I have to say that surfing is one of the best activity ever! The waves were very good this time and we were able to go for 3+ hours in the water. The water, contrary to what I expected, wasn't cold at all (of course this is with the wet suit on).
The rush you get from catching a wave is unbelievable. You feel like you are going sooo fast! I was able to semi get-up a few times and that feeling was great. I wish that I will get another chance to try surfing once more and get up fully and enjoy it even more!
Of course I wiped out numerous times. Lesson learned: when you see 'white water' rushing towards you and you haven't caught the wave yet, DON'T try to ride it... or risk wiping out and doing somersaults in the water... a few of them!... Timing seems to be very important in surfing, if you are too early, you miss the wave.. if you are too late, you get engulfed in it... you have to be juuuust right!
What I thought makes surfing great is that you can rest on the board when you are tired. Now for those who swim, imagine just floating in the middle of a pool (conscious - of course), and feeling your body just buoy up and down with the currents... very relaxing feeling right? Now imagine you are floating, but you are gazing into an infinite blue sky, hearing the soothing sound of the waves, and you are gently rocked by the waves while you sit on your board to take in the sight, with a very faint breeze blowing at you so that you are not terribly hot, but not cold either... that's the feeling of surfing when you are resting! And when you are moving and do catch the wave, well, I already talked about that...
Then at night, went to San Fran and went to see the night life again. The street we went to was an interesting street with LOTS of cops!.. haha... But it was ok. By the end of the night, you see drunk people stumbling around and talking about random things, very nice atmosphere! haha... ended the night with a nice midnight snack before heading back to Palo Alto area...
From the long dip in the ocean, and the lots of swimming required, sea salted Mson fell asleep on the ride back from San Fran to home.... and with that, Part II of triple header is completed.
No comments:
Post a Comment